As part of the learning reference content, I’m transcribing old tailoring manuals, and this is the newest entry in the Reference Library. It’s chapter 10 of the “Modern Tailor Outfitter and Cutter.” It goes into detail with many period cuts for coats, and goes into detail about sleeve cutting. This is a sample of the entire book project which is currently underway. I plan on releasing chapter after chapter. At the moment I consider it a work in progress, because I still need to go in and do some fine-tooth comb proofreading. Again, if you find this helpful, please consider becoming a Patron and supporting these efforts! Cheers!
This is a red-letter day! The campaign to promote Brass & Mortar’s learning tutorial project is now live, and the Patreon Page is now active.
Tomorrow, on the 6th, I’ll be hosting a live event on Google Hangouts for the launch day, starting at 12 pm, Pacific Standard Time. We’ll discuss the future of the project, lesson plan, order of the videos, and answer any questions you might have.
Check out Brass & Mortar’s Patreon Campaign Page to find out more details about becoming a patron and what I have to offer.
This might be the only time you will see me use that term “double-welted pocket” in a journal title. That is because, as I shall prove below, such a thing does not actually exist. Actually, to be fair, none of these things “exist” any more than what people mutually agree does or not, but that doesn’t mean I can’t have my say, and I shall say it!
I have been outspoken in the past about my insistence on calling pockets by their proper, traditional names, as do most bespoke tailors, but for the majority of people calling upon the ever-prominent “double-welted pocket”, I bring you the following logic. Observe!
The diagram should be pretty self-explanatory, but to get some of those meta tags out there for index robots to munch on, basically what you’re looking at is a cross-section view of two types of pockets, showing how the layers of cloth and pocketing overlap. The view has been simplified a bit (such as the omission of interfacing) and is missing the prongs on either side of the mouths, but the point is to show that if done properly, a jetted pocket should lay flat across the surface of the garment. A welt pocket, on the other hand, is raised up from the surface.
This throws all claims of the ever-prominent “double-welted” pocket. If there were truly a double-welt going on, you would see two raised surfaces, which I might add, contradicts the very meaning of what the name implies. In other words, if you have two raised surfaces face to face, not only would you have a meaningless second pocket mouth, but the surface would ipso facto be leveled, thus no longer being a “welted” surface.Read More»
There are some big things on the horizon for Brass & Mortar.
Within the next two weeks, there will be a huge announcement coming your way. After a long, drawn-out respite, things will be cranking back up into full gear. The time for the Rat to return is nigh! Get ready for weekly updates, new videos, entertaining tidbits, and a full-fledged interactive feed. Stay tuned to this channel for further updates and sneak-peaks.
t’s been a while since I’ve updated, and for good reason. I’m working my veritable butt off. I don’t think I’ve mentioned this until now (because once again, I’ve been busy!) but the Brass & Mortar headquarters has successfully moved into a more suitable location! The officials at The Riverside Artist Lofts were kind enough to allow access to become one of its inhabitants. This means that we now have 1220 ample square feet to work, play, eat and sleep, with plenty of natural lighting and consistent dry ventilation!
At the moment, the place looks a bit deranged what with all the construction going on. Tables are being acquired and refinished, retrofitted to capably handle the weight of humans, etc. As mentioned before, Lola, our new stitching associate will be helping with some of the machine work. Figuring out where the placement of all these necessary items would normally be a chore, however, my associates and I have devised a preliminary working schematic of how new workshop will be arranged. This was actually made in advance to give the selection committee a good idea of what the space would be used for.
As you can see, there’s a tremendous amount of work ahead of us! Things have already started to shift from the original plan, but that’s only to be expected. Once the various pieces of furniture and tools are acquired and made, the floor-plan will change along with it, to be sure! The majority of time is currently concentrated on the generation of needed funds to fulfill the extensive wishlist! This is both unfortunate but necessary, as it means much time is being taken away from progress of actual garments, however it’s direly required for the future of the workshop.