A new chapter done!

As part of the learn­ing ref­er­ence con­tent, I’m tran­scrib­ing old tai­lor­ing man­u­als, and this is the newest entry in the Ref­er­ence Library. It’s chap­ter 10 of the “Mod­ern Tai­lor Out­fit­ter and Cut­ter.” It goes into detail with many period cuts for coats, and goes into detail about sleeve cut­ting. This is a sam­ple of the entire book project which is cur­rently under­way. I plan on releas­ing chap­ter after chap­ter. At the moment I con­sider it a work in progress, because I still need to go in and do some fine-tooth comb proof­read­ing. Again, if you find this help­ful, please con­sider becom­ing a Patron and sup­port­ing these efforts! Cheers!

Chap­ter 10: Jacket and Coat Cutting

Patreon Campaign is now LIVE!

This is a red-letter day! The cam­paign to pro­mote Brass & Mortar’s learn­ing tuto­r­ial project is now live, and the Patreon Page is now active.

Tomor­row, on the 6th, I’ll be host­ing a live event on Google Hang­outs for the launch day, start­ing at 12 pm, Pacific Stan­dard Time. We’ll dis­cuss the future of the project, les­son plan, order of the videos, and answer any ques­tions you might have.

Check out Brass & Mortar’s Patreon Cam­paign Page to find out more details about becom­ing a patron and what I have to offer.

The “Double-welted” Pocket

This might be the only time you will see me use that term “double-welted pocket” in a jour­nal title.  That is because, as I shall prove below, such a thing does not actu­ally exist.  Actu­ally, to be fair, none of these things “exist” any more than what peo­ple mutu­ally agree does or not, but that doesn’t mean I can’t have my say, and I shall say it!

I have been out­spo­ken in the past about my insis­tence on call­ing pock­ets by their proper, tra­di­tional names, as do most bespoke tai­lors, but for the major­ity of peo­ple call­ing upon the ever-prominent “double-welted pocket”, I bring you the fol­low­ing logic.  Observe!

The dia­gram should be pretty self-explanatory, but to get some of those meta tags out there for index robots to munch on, basi­cally what you’re look­ing at is a cross-section view of two types of pock­ets, show­ing how the lay­ers of cloth and pock­et­ing over­lap. The view has been sim­pli­fied a bit (such as the omis­sion of inter­fac­ing) and is  miss­ing the prongs on either side of the mouths, but the point is to show that if done prop­erly, a jet­ted pocket should lay flat across the sur­face of the gar­ment. A welt pocket, on the other hand, is raised up from the surface.

This throws all claims of the ever-prominent “double-welted” pocket.  If there were truly a double-welt going on, you would see two raised sur­faces, which I might add, con­tra­dicts the very mean­ing of what the name implies.  In other words, if you have two raised sur­faces face to face, not only would you have a mean­ing­less sec­ond pocket mouth, but the sur­face would ipso facto be lev­eled, thus no longer being a “welted” surface.

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Something wicked this way comes.

There are some big things on the hori­zon for Brass & Mortar.

Within the next two weeks, there will be a huge announce­ment com­ing your way.  After a long, drawn-out respite, things will be crank­ing back up into full gear. The time for the Rat to return is nigh!  Get ready for weekly updates, new videos, enter­tain­ing tid­bits, and a full-fledged inter­ac­tive feed.  Stay tuned to this chan­nel for fur­ther updates and sneak-peaks.

The Floorplan.


t’s been a while since I’ve updated, and for good rea­son. I’m work­ing my ver­i­ta­ble butt off. I don’t think I’ve men­tioned this until now (because once again, I’ve been busy!) but the Brass & Mor­tar head­quar­ters has suc­cess­fully moved into a more suit­able loca­tion! The offi­cials at The River­side Artist Lofts were kind enough to allow access to become one of its inhab­i­tants. This means that we now have 1220 ample square feet to work, play, eat and sleep, with plenty of nat­ural light­ing and con­sis­tent dry ventilation!


At the moment, the place looks a bit deranged what with all the con­struc­tion going on. Tables are being acquired and refin­ished, retro­fit­ted to capa­bly han­dle the weight of humans, etc. As men­tioned before, Lola, our new stitch­ing asso­ciate will be help­ing with some of the machine work. Fig­ur­ing out where the place­ment of all these nec­es­sary items would nor­mally be a chore, how­ever, my asso­ciates and I have devised a pre­lim­i­nary work­ing schematic of how new work­shop will be arranged. This was actu­ally made in advance to give the selec­tion com­mit­tee a good idea of what the space would be used for.


As you can see, there’s a tremen­dous amount of work ahead of us! Things have already started to shift from the orig­i­nal plan, but that’s only to be expected. Once the var­i­ous pieces of fur­ni­ture and tools are acquired and made, the floor-plan will change along with it, to be sure! The major­ity of time is cur­rently con­cen­trated on the gen­er­a­tion of needed funds to ful­fill the exten­sive wish­list! This is both unfor­tu­nate but nec­es­sary, as it means much time is being taken away from progress of actual gar­ments, how­ever it’s direly required for the future of the workshop.

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