Is Smart Bespoke on the way?

To quote Kevin Rose, this is amazing.

It seems many peo­ple all over the globe are con­ceiv­ing of the same idea at once, and this is a good thing. A cou­ple years ago I wrote about the idea of cre­at­ing a sys­tem to vir­tu­ally fit and draft pat­terns for tai­lored gar­ments. I also wrote another blog post about whether pat­terns should be copy­rightable or not.

In 2010, I came up with this idea everyone’s talk­ing about, and I started doing research on exist­ing pattern-drafting soft­ware. I dis­cov­ered Opti­tex and I con­tacted a con­sumer rela­tions rep to see if they would be inter­ested in work­ing with the open source com­mu­nity, but unfor­tu­nately they weren’t. They mar­ket their pro­pri­etary soft­ware to huge indus­try play­ers for thou­sands of dol­lars per license. I also rec­om­mended that they at least work with the gam­ing devel­op­ment com­mu­nity to help develop their physics engine. I told him, there’s no indus­try bet­ter at ana­lyz­ing 3D ren­der­ing and physics than the gam­ing devel­op­ment com­mu­nity. The rep hadn’t even con­sid­ered it and was doubt­ful if it would work.

I’ve been recently try­ing to drum up sup­port and find will­ing and able coders to cre­ate a libre web-based plat­form using JavaScript and Can­vas to auto-draft pat­terns using tra­di­tional bespoke sys­tems, and also to cre­ate a shar­ing plat­form so the world can share each other’s drafts here and here. I was also about to make a new blog post about all this as a call out to devel­op­ers to see if we could start cre­at­ing something…

Valentina Screen­shot

.…but then I just dis­cov­ered some­thing called Valentina, and now I’m really, really excited. I need to speak with this man.

Read More»

The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clother, Fourth Edition is now online!

This is a major mile­stone! After two years of delays and months of hard work, this pub­li­ca­tion is now fully remas­tered and dig­i­tized for world­wide con­sump­tion. Hope­fully this will give suf­fi­cient sup­ple­men­tal mate­ri­als as I begin to cre­ate my how-to videos. More pub­li­ca­tions will be com­ing down the line in addi­tion to this title.

Bookview

This remas­tered book features:

  • Easy-to-read lay­outs, with illus­tra­tions and dia­grams on same page or oppos­ing page in spreads.
  • Search­able text for keywords.
  • Scal­able vec­tor­ized dia­grams which will print crisp and sharp on each print regard­less of resizing.
  • Pre­served typog­ra­phy and text, true to the orig­i­nal book, with typos repaired from orig­i­nal manuscript.
  • Com­pressed page-count—204 pages, com­pared to the orig­i­nal 319.
  • Ready-to-print qual­ity from any home printer or off­set press on letter-size 8.5 x 11″ paper.

To down­load the print-ready ver­sion of this title and many oth­ers, visit the Learn­ing Ref­er­ence Library.

A new chapter done!

As part of the learn­ing ref­er­ence con­tent, I’m tran­scrib­ing old tai­lor­ing man­u­als, and this is the newest entry in the Ref­er­ence Library. It’s chap­ter 10 of the “Mod­ern Tai­lor Out­fit­ter and Cut­ter.” It goes into detail with many period cuts for coats, and goes into detail about sleeve cut­ting. This is a sam­ple of the entire book project which is cur­rently under­way. I plan on releas­ing chap­ter after chap­ter. At the moment I con­sider it a work in progress, because I still need to go in and do some fine-tooth comb proof­read­ing. Again, if you find this help­ful, please con­sider becom­ing a Patron and sup­port­ing these efforts! Cheers!

Chap­ter 10: Jacket and Coat Cutting

The “Double-welted” Pocket

This might be the only time you will see me use that term “double-welted pocket” in a jour­nal title.  That is because, as I shall prove below, such a thing does not actu­ally exist.  Actu­ally, to be fair, none of these things “exist” any more than what peo­ple mutu­ally agree does or not, but that doesn’t mean I can’t have my say, and I shall say it!

I have been out­spo­ken in the past about my insis­tence on call­ing pock­ets by their proper, tra­di­tional names, as do most bespoke tai­lors, but for the major­ity of peo­ple call­ing upon the ever-prominent “double-welted pocket”, I bring you the fol­low­ing logic.  Observe!

The dia­gram should be pretty self-explanatory, but to get some of those meta tags out there for index robots to munch on, basi­cally what you’re look­ing at is a cross-section view of two types of pock­ets, show­ing how the lay­ers of cloth and pock­et­ing over­lap. The view has been sim­pli­fied a bit (such as the omis­sion of inter­fac­ing) and is  miss­ing the prongs on either side of the mouths, but the point is to show that if done prop­erly, a jet­ted pocket should lay flat across the sur­face of the gar­ment. A welt pocket, on the other hand, is raised up from the surface.

This throws all claims of the ever-prominent “double-welted” pocket.  If there were truly a double-welt going on, you would see two raised sur­faces, which I might add, con­tra­dicts the very mean­ing of what the name implies.  In other words, if you have two raised sur­faces face to face, not only would you have a mean­ing­less sec­ond pocket mouth, but the sur­face would ipso facto be lev­eled, thus no longer being a “welted” surface.

Read More»

The Floorplan.

I

t’s been a while since I’ve updated, and for good rea­son. I’m work­ing my ver­i­ta­ble butt off. I don’t think I’ve men­tioned this until now (because once again, I’ve been busy!) but the Brass & Mor­tar head­quar­ters has suc­cess­fully moved into a more suit­able loca­tion! The offi­cials at The River­side Artist Lofts were kind enough to allow access to become one of its inhab­i­tants. This means that we now have 1220 ample square feet to work, play, eat and sleep, with plenty of nat­ural light­ing and con­sis­tent dry ventilation!

bamhq_13092001_brighter

At the moment, the place looks a bit deranged what with all the con­struc­tion going on. Tables are being acquired and refin­ished, retro­fit­ted to capa­bly han­dle the weight of humans, etc. As men­tioned before, Lola, our new stitch­ing asso­ciate will be help­ing with some of the machine work. Fig­ur­ing out where the place­ment of all these nec­es­sary items would nor­mally be a chore, how­ever, my asso­ciates and I have devised a pre­lim­i­nary work­ing schematic of how new work­shop will be arranged. This was actu­ally made in advance to give the selec­tion com­mit­tee a good idea of what the space would be used for.

Riverside-Steamshop-2000x

As you can see, there’s a tremen­dous amount of work ahead of us! Things have already started to shift from the orig­i­nal plan, but that’s only to be expected. Once the var­i­ous pieces of fur­ni­ture and tools are acquired and made, the floor-plan will change along with it, to be sure! The major­ity of time is cur­rently con­cen­trated on the gen­er­a­tion of needed funds to ful­fill the exten­sive wish­list! This is both unfor­tu­nate but nec­es­sary, as it means much time is being taken away from progress of actual gar­ments, how­ever it’s direly required for the future of the workshop.

Page 1 of 1612345...10...Last »
© Copyright Brass & Mortar Uniform Depot and Tailoring Shop - Designed by Pexeto