I’ve made a 1:1 scale template for creating a tailor’s square, otherwise known as a Tailor’s L-Rule. The template was based off of Fredrick Croonborg’s page illustration from the 1907 Supreme System by Fredrick Croonborg. With this, anyone can now download the PDF or layered Adobe Illustrator file and create an accurate reproduction of the classic imperial unit tailor’s square. The Adobe Illustrator file comes with two artboards: One which is a composite template of the entire square, in layers, and the second contains separate pieces for the event in which someone might want to fabricate a reproduction in wood, brass, or any other material they wish. I’m personally going to take these templates over to my local makerspace and use the laser cutter to etch a couple of these out of plexiglass or wood with a brass brace!Read More»
To quote Kevin Rose, this is amazing.
It seems many people all over the globe are conceiving of the same idea at once, and this is a good thing. A couple years ago I wrote about the idea of creating a system to virtually fit and draft patterns for tailored garments. I also wrote another blog post about whether patterns should be copyrightable or not.
In 2010, I came up with this idea everyone’s talking about, and I started doing research on existing pattern-drafting software. I discovered Optitex and I contacted a consumer relations rep to see if they would be interested in working with the open source community, but unfortunately they weren’t. They market their proprietary software to huge industry players for thousands of dollars per license. I also recommended that they at least work with the gaming development community to help develop their physics engine. I told him, there’s no industry better at analyzing 3D rendering and physics than the gaming development community. The rep hadn’t even considered it and was doubtful if it would work.
.…but then I just discovered something called Valentina, and now I’m really, really excited. I need to speak with this man.Read More»
This is a major milestone! After two years of delays and months of hard work, this publication is now fully remastered and digitized for worldwide consumption. Hopefully this will give sufficient supplemental materials as I begin to create my how-to videos. More publications will be coming down the line in addition to this title.
This remastered book features:
- Easy-to-read layouts, with illustrations and diagrams on same page or opposing page in spreads.
- Searchable text for keywords.
- Scalable vectorized diagrams which will print crisp and sharp on each print regardless of resizing.
- Preserved typography and text, true to the original book, with typos repaired from original manuscript.
- Compressed page-count—204 pages, compared to the original 319.
- Ready-to-print quality from any home printer or offset press on letter-size 8.5 x 11″ paper.
To download the print-ready version of this title and many others, visit the Learning Reference Library.
As part of the learning reference content, I’m transcribing old tailoring manuals, and this is the newest entry in the Reference Library. It’s chapter 10 of the “Modern Tailor Outfitter and Cutter.” It goes into detail with many period cuts for coats, and goes into detail about sleeve cutting. This is a sample of the entire book project which is currently underway. I plan on releasing chapter after chapter. At the moment I consider it a work in progress, because I still need to go in and do some fine-tooth comb proofreading. Again, if you find this helpful, please consider becoming a Patron and supporting these efforts! Cheers!
This might be the only time you will see me use that term “double-welted pocket” in a journal title. That is because, as I shall prove below, such a thing does not actually exist. Actually, to be fair, none of these things “exist” any more than what people mutually agree does or not, but that doesn’t mean I can’t have my say, and I shall say it!
I have been outspoken in the past about my insistence on calling pockets by their proper, traditional names, as do most bespoke tailors, but for the majority of people calling upon the ever-prominent “double-welted pocket”, I bring you the following logic. Observe!
The diagram should be pretty self-explanatory, but to get some of those meta tags out there for index robots to munch on, basically what you’re looking at is a cross-section view of two types of pockets, showing how the layers of cloth and pocketing overlap. The view has been simplified a bit (such as the omission of interfacing) and is missing the prongs on either side of the mouths, but the point is to show that if done properly, a jetted pocket should lay flat across the surface of the garment. A welt pocket, on the other hand, is raised up from the surface.
This throws all claims of the ever-prominent “double-welted” pocket. If there were truly a double-welt going on, you would see two raised surfaces, which I might add, contradicts the very meaning of what the name implies. In other words, if you have two raised surfaces face to face, not only would you have a meaningless second pocket mouth, but the surface would ipso facto be leveled, thus no longer being a “welted” surface.Read More»