A First Time for Everything!

IMG_7659So, I’ve been study­ing tai­lor­ing for going on 5 years now, and I’ve never yet hand-drafted a pat­tern using a pen­cil and paper. I fig­ured that needed to change, and I set off to do this about two months ago. In order to draft, I required a draft­ing square. Once again, being low on money and believ­ing in mak­ing things myself influ­enced me to cre­ate my own draft­ing square. So, of course, I over­did it, and not only did I make a square, but I made an over­all accu­rate repro­duc­tion of a vin­tage 1907 tailor’s square, orig­i­nally put out by Lufkin Rule Com­pany.

Once I had some work­ing pro­to­types I went on to actu­ally try my hand at draft­ing for the first time, and of course I picked a Prince Albert Frock Coat. Why not? ;D Con­tinue read­ing if you care for the details and a video!

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Tailor’s Square Templates, Now Available



I’ve made a 1:1 scale tem­plate for cre­at­ing a tailor’s square, oth­er­wise known as a Tailor’s L-Rule. The tem­plate was based off of Fredrick Croonborg’s page illus­tra­tion from the 1907 Supreme Sys­tem by Fredrick Croon­borg. With this, any­one can now down­load the PDF or lay­ered Adobe Illus­tra­tor file and cre­ate an accu­rate repro­duc­tion of the clas­sic impe­r­ial unit tailor’s square. The Adobe Illus­tra­tor file comes with two art­boards: One which is a com­pos­ite tem­plate of the entire square, in lay­ers, and the sec­ond con­tains sep­a­rate pieces for the event in which some­one might want to fab­ri­cate a repro­duc­tion in wood, brass, or any other mate­r­ial they wish. I’m per­son­ally going to take these tem­plates over to my local mak­er­space and use the laser cut­ter to etch a cou­ple of these out of plex­i­glass or wood with a brass brace!

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Is Smart Bespoke on the way?

To quote Kevin Rose, this is amazing.

It seems many peo­ple all over the globe are con­ceiv­ing of the same idea at once, and this is a good thing. A cou­ple years ago I wrote about the idea of cre­at­ing a sys­tem to vir­tu­ally fit and draft pat­terns for tai­lored gar­ments. I also wrote another blog post about whether pat­terns should be copy­rightable or not.

In 2010, I came up with this idea everyone’s talk­ing about, and I started doing research on exist­ing pattern-drafting soft­ware. I dis­cov­ered Opti­tex and I con­tacted a con­sumer rela­tions rep to see if they would be inter­ested in work­ing with the open source com­mu­nity, but unfor­tu­nately they weren’t. They mar­ket their pro­pri­etary soft­ware to huge indus­try play­ers for thou­sands of dol­lars per license. I also rec­om­mended that they at least work with the gam­ing devel­op­ment com­mu­nity to help develop their physics engine. I told him, there’s no indus­try bet­ter at ana­lyz­ing 3D ren­der­ing and physics than the gam­ing devel­op­ment com­mu­nity. The rep hadn’t even con­sid­ered it and was doubt­ful if it would work.

I’ve been recently try­ing to drum up sup­port and find will­ing and able coders to cre­ate a libre web-based plat­form using JavaScript and Can­vas to auto-draft pat­terns using tra­di­tional bespoke sys­tems, and also to cre­ate a shar­ing plat­form so the world can share each other’s drafts here and here. I was also about to make a new blog post about all this as a call out to devel­op­ers to see if we could start cre­at­ing something…

Valentina Screen­shot

.…but then I just dis­cov­ered some­thing called Valentina, and now I’m really, really excited. I need to speak with this man.

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The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clother, Fourth Edition is now online!

This is a major mile­stone! After two years of delays and months of hard work, this pub­li­ca­tion is now fully remas­tered and dig­i­tized for world­wide con­sump­tion. Hope­fully this will give suf­fi­cient sup­ple­men­tal mate­ri­als as I begin to cre­ate my how-to videos. More pub­li­ca­tions will be com­ing down the line in addi­tion to this title.


This remas­tered book features:

  • Easy-to-read lay­outs, with illus­tra­tions and dia­grams on same page or oppos­ing page in spreads.
  • Search­able text for keywords.
  • Scal­able vec­tor­ized dia­grams which will print crisp and sharp on each print regard­less of resizing.
  • Pre­served typog­ra­phy and text, true to the orig­i­nal book, with typos repaired from orig­i­nal manuscript.
  • Com­pressed page-count—204 pages, com­pared to the orig­i­nal 319.
  • Ready-to-print qual­ity from any home printer or off­set press on letter-size 8.5 x 11″ paper.

To down­load the print-ready ver­sion of this title and many oth­ers, visit the Learn­ing Ref­er­ence Library.

A new chapter done!

As part of the learn­ing ref­er­ence con­tent, I’m tran­scrib­ing old tai­lor­ing man­u­als, and this is the newest entry in the Ref­er­ence Library. It’s chap­ter 10 of the “Mod­ern Tai­lor Out­fit­ter and Cut­ter.” It goes into detail with many period cuts for coats, and goes into detail about sleeve cut­ting. This is a sam­ple of the entire book project which is cur­rently under­way. I plan on releas­ing chap­ter after chap­ter. At the moment I con­sider it a work in progress, because I still need to go in and do some fine-tooth comb proof­read­ing. Again, if you find this help­ful, please con­sider becom­ing a Patron and sup­port­ing these efforts! Cheers!

Chap­ter 10: Jacket and Coat Cutting

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