Is Smart Bespoke on the way?

To quote Kevin Rose, this is amazing.

It seems many peo­ple all over the globe are con­ceiv­ing of the same idea at once, and this is a good thing. A cou­ple years ago I wrote about the idea of cre­at­ing a sys­tem to vir­tu­ally fit and draft pat­terns for tai­lored gar­ments. I also wrote another blog post about whether pat­terns should be copy­rightable or not.

In 2010, I came up with this idea everyone’s talk­ing about, and I started doing research on exist­ing pattern-drafting soft­ware. I dis­cov­ered Opti­tex and I con­tacted a con­sumer rela­tions rep to see if they would be inter­ested in work­ing with the open source com­mu­nity, but unfor­tu­nately they weren’t. They mar­ket their pro­pri­etary soft­ware to huge indus­try play­ers for thou­sands of dol­lars per license. I also rec­om­mended that they at least work with the gam­ing devel­op­ment com­mu­nity to help develop their physics engine. I told him, there’s no indus­try bet­ter at ana­lyz­ing 3D ren­der­ing and physics than the gam­ing devel­op­ment com­mu­nity. The rep hadn’t even con­sid­ered it and was doubt­ful if it would work.

I’ve been recently try­ing to drum up sup­port and find will­ing and able coders to cre­ate a libre web-based plat­form using JavaScript and Can­vas to auto-draft pat­terns using tra­di­tional bespoke sys­tems, and also to cre­ate a shar­ing plat­form so the world can share each other’s drafts here and here. I was also about to make a new blog post about all this as a call out to devel­op­ers to see if we could start cre­at­ing something…

Valentina Screen­shot

.…but then I just dis­cov­ered some­thing called Valentina, and now I’m really, really excited. I need to speak with this man.

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The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clother, Fourth Edition is now online!

This is a major mile­stone! After two years of delays and months of hard work, this pub­li­ca­tion is now fully remas­tered and dig­i­tized for world­wide con­sump­tion. Hope­fully this will give suf­fi­cient sup­ple­men­tal mate­ri­als as I begin to cre­ate my how-to videos. More pub­li­ca­tions will be com­ing down the line in addi­tion to this title.


This remas­tered book features:

  • Easy-to-read lay­outs, with illus­tra­tions and dia­grams on same page or oppos­ing page in spreads.
  • Search­able text for keywords.
  • Scal­able vec­tor­ized dia­grams which will print crisp and sharp on each print regard­less of resizing.
  • Pre­served typog­ra­phy and text, true to the orig­i­nal book, with typos repaired from orig­i­nal manuscript.
  • Com­pressed page-count—204 pages, com­pared to the orig­i­nal 319.
  • Ready-to-print qual­ity from any home printer or off­set press on letter-size 8.5 x 11″ paper.

To down­load the print-ready ver­sion of this title and many oth­ers, visit the Learn­ing Ref­er­ence Library.

A new chapter done!

As part of the learn­ing ref­er­ence con­tent, I’m tran­scrib­ing old tai­lor­ing man­u­als, and this is the newest entry in the Ref­er­ence Library. It’s chap­ter 10 of the “Mod­ern Tai­lor Out­fit­ter and Cut­ter.” It goes into detail with many period cuts for coats, and goes into detail about sleeve cut­ting. This is a sam­ple of the entire book project which is cur­rently under­way. I plan on releas­ing chap­ter after chap­ter. At the moment I con­sider it a work in progress, because I still need to go in and do some fine-tooth comb proof­read­ing. Again, if you find this help­ful, please con­sider becom­ing a Patron and sup­port­ing these efforts! Cheers!

Chap­ter 10: Jacket and Coat Cutting

Patreon Campaign is now LIVE!

This is a red-letter day! The cam­paign to pro­mote Brass & Mortar’s learn­ing tuto­r­ial project is now live, and the Patreon Page is now active.

Tomor­row, on the 6th, I’ll be host­ing a live event on Google Hang­outs for the launch day, start­ing at 12 pm, Pacific Stan­dard Time. We’ll dis­cuss the future of the project, les­son plan, order of the videos, and answer any ques­tions you might have.

Check out Brass & Mortar’s Patreon Cam­paign Page to find out more details about becom­ing a patron and what I have to offer.

The “Double-welted” Pocket

This might be the only time you will see me use that term “double-welted pocket” in a jour­nal title.  That is because, as I shall prove below, such a thing does not actu­ally exist.  Actu­ally, to be fair, none of these things “exist” any more than what peo­ple mutu­ally agree does or not, but that doesn’t mean I can’t have my say, and I shall say it!

I have been out­spo­ken in the past about my insis­tence on call­ing pock­ets by their proper, tra­di­tional names, as do most bespoke tai­lors, but for the major­ity of peo­ple call­ing upon the ever-prominent “double-welted pocket”, I bring you the fol­low­ing logic.  Observe!

The dia­gram should be pretty self-explanatory, but to get some of those meta tags out there for index robots to munch on, basi­cally what you’re look­ing at is a cross-section view of two types of pock­ets, show­ing how the lay­ers of cloth and pock­et­ing over­lap. The view has been sim­pli­fied a bit (such as the omis­sion of inter­fac­ing) and is  miss­ing the prongs on either side of the mouths, but the point is to show that if done prop­erly, a jet­ted pocket should lay flat across the sur­face of the gar­ment. A welt pocket, on the other hand, is raised up from the surface.

This throws all claims of the ever-prominent “double-welted” pocket.  If there were truly a double-welt going on, you would see two raised sur­faces, which I might add, con­tra­dicts the very mean­ing of what the name implies.  In other words, if you have two raised sur­faces face to face, not only would you have a mean­ing­less sec­ond pocket mouth, but the sur­face would ipso facto be lev­eled, thus no longer being a “welted” surface.

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